Catskill Report 2/1/17

Discussion in 'New York - South' started by Alpine Endeavors, Feb 2, 2017.

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  1. Alpine Endeavors

    Alpine Endeavors AMGA Certified Rock and Alpine Guide Northeast Ice Climbing Guide

    While the weekend before last brought some warm temperatures the ice hung in there at the higher and/or more sheltered areas and the drop in temperatures last Friday make it a pretty good weekend. It was a busy weekend with the Catskill Ice Festival among the regular climbing parties and guides. There has been some decent snowfall the last week and the coverage is nice (currently like Névé with some pockets of powder) making the approaches easy walking with crampons. Ok, the latest conditions we have to report: most ice is thin to moderate in thickness with some delaminated sections from previous warming and tinsel and thin areas from new growth. Please be aware and tread lightly as to not destroy what's building - and use judgement and caution if you're leading. Here's an area rundown:

    Stony Clove has ice at the the following areas: east side corners, castle greyskull, east crag - and some areas in between, little black dike, the entertainer and possibly climb axe and ice capades by now.

    Platte clove - lower dark side: lightsaber, yoda couloir, thermal exhaust port, frozen apples, etc upper dark side - green pillar and some others left and right

    Kitchen- wasn't really climbable last weekend

    Black Chasm - down

    Ravines, there is water running but there are still possibilities: Hillyer provided many options on Monday (1/30/17) on both the left and right flows, as well as the shorter flow to its far left. We checked out Buttermilk yesterday (1/31/17), The creek crossing was totally open but it was possible by hopping boulders which are located in the creek just below where the optical line is down at its lowest point-by the broken telephone pole. Many of the pitches had lots of open water, we had to climb the sides and/or walk around, Pitch 5 was in the best shape on the reguar line, and the Cream Separator was the gem (photo pictured). There was also ice on the left walls up left of the 6th pitch. Wildcat- we've heard some climbers climbed the variation walls on the left side of the ravine below the upper pitch

    Deep Notch has ice and was climbed by a few parties.

    This weekend is looking good for ice, have fun out there!
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Feb 2, 2017
  2. Martin A

    Martin A New Member

    Stony Clove today- LBD was in, Rons Gully in, Climax fun but watch for unbonded sections, lots of ice have fun and be safe out there.
     
  3. Gary Scavette

    Gary Scavette Member

    Hillyer had plenty of ice this morning with some water running on the final pitch
     
  4. Marcus Russi

    Marcus Russi New Member

    Buttermilk was in good condition on Friday. Crossing the creek was pretty easy. We opted out of pitches 2, 4, 6 and instead climbed variations...Cream Separator was amazing, and the 5- pillar on the 6th tier was brittle and scary. Several lines off to the left between p5,6 are in, too.
     

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