ADK Conditions 12/7/16

Discussion in 'New York - North' started by BlueLineYeti, Dec 8, 2016.

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  1. BlueLineYeti

    BlueLineYeti Member

    We took a look at the roadside ice areas from Chapel Pond up through Cascade Pass. As of yesterday (12/7/16) we wouldn't call anything "in". There is a fair amount of thin ice building on the normal routes but don't expect much thickness. Running water was frequently found which should set up nice with the forecasted cold temps coming this way.

    We walked back into the NFoP and found slightly better conditions but again, we would hesitate to call any of the routes back there "in" as of yesterday. Arm and Hammer and Moss Gyhll were both climbed and offered fun climbing on thin ice with a sometimes non-inspiring bond to the rock behind it. Protection was minimal.
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2016
    bendito likes this.
  2. Mike Hazard

    Mike Hazard Member

    Any pictures? Is it at least worth the walk back to NFoP? When you say protection was minimal did you use any rock gear or just solo? Heading up that way on Saturday and Sunday.
     
  3. bendito

    bendito Member

    3 stubbies in 55 meter pitch on Arm and Hammer, 2 stubbies and on #1 cam in 55 meters on Moss Gyhll. It was like climbing on drywall at times. great assessment by BlueLineYeti. Climbing partner too the pics.
     
  4. Mike Hazard

    Mike Hazard Member

    Nicely done! You using 10's for stubbies? Guess I need to get a couple more... I just have one 10 and two 12's.
     
  5. Bill Kirby

    Bill Kirby Active Member

    I have 1 6cm and 1 7cm screw and call those stubbies. Gunkie Mike made them for me. I can PM you his info if you're interested. Did a great job. I sent him two 10 cm Petzl Laser Speeds and he sent me back a way to lower off when I get into trouble.

    I'll be around this weekend too.
     
    Paul Kennedy likes this.
  6. bendito

    bendito Member

    yes, 10's for stubbies.
     
  7. BlueLineYeti

    BlueLineYeti Member

    Just posted 3 pictures to the New York North section.
     
  8. Paul Kennedy

    Paul Kennedy Well-Known Member

    There's always this option
     

    Attached Files:

  9. Mike Hazard

    Mike Hazard Member

    Haha, nice Paul. That's bomber.
     
  10. Mike Hazard

    Mike Hazard Member

    Might be interested in a super stubbie, I think I have Mike's email I'll have to ask him about it. Mutual friends but I don't think I've met him.
     
  11. Mike Hazard

    Mike Hazard Member

    Moss Gyhll looking extra mossy! Scottish style... nice. If I head up there I'll make sure to pack a spectre.
     
  12. Paul Kennedy

    Paul Kennedy Well-Known Member

    Interested in opinions. I'll drop a thread with a sling and screamer before a stubbie. I don't really think there anything more than comfort gear, especially since (in my habits) there's always rotten ice on top and hard to find perfect ice where they might be eh-ok. What do you guys think?
     
  13. Paul Kennedy

    Paul Kennedy Well-Known Member

    Thread as in v-thread.
     
  14. bendito

    bendito Member

    Are you you talking about when bailing from an ice climb?
     
  15. bendito

    bendito Member

    What situation would you use this?
     
  16. Paul Kennedy

    Paul Kennedy Well-Known Member

    No. Let's say you're in a corner with shallow ice, or chandalier ice, or something thin where you might put a 10 cm or less( 6-7 cm mentioned above). All that ice isn't solid and at that point even if it is solid it's probably not going to afford much protection. At that point a v thread or two linked together on a sling (I'll send a pic next week) attached to a screamer is probably stronger in the ice than a tiny screw. Hopefully I can do a real test on this and have some evidence (not by falling I hope).

    The tools pic I ran out of screws - mini belay station. I've bailed off my tools to retrieve screws to continue before too
     
  17. bendito

    bendito Member

    If you have enough ice to trust a v-thread, why are you not trusting a short screw? Much safer to keep climbing unprotected than rap on crap. Maybe I am misunderstanding and not following your logic.
     
  18. Paul Kennedy

    Paul Kennedy Well-Known Member

    I guess I'm not describing the situations I'm thinking of well enough. When I'm rested and can write something concise I'll repost.
     

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