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Discussion in 'New York - South' started by Paul Kennedy, Jan 1, 2017.

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  1. Paul Kennedy

    Paul Kennedy Well-Known Member

    We were up in Stony Clove and a road side view of Devil's Kitchen last Monday. Has anyone been up and around that can comment on conditions? We went to left corner I think it was in the Clove but the ice was too poor to lead so we top roped for a while. Some reported that other climbs (albeit a few) were doing pretty well. Interested in heading up from Philly, but more interested in the conditions right now (as I'm sure you all know why).

    Keep it safe and exciting!
     
  2. bendito

    bendito Member

    Looking at the weather and forecast thru this Wednesday, it may take a hit but it will pay off with upcoming temps for this weekend.
     
  3. Paul Kennedy

    Paul Kennedy Well-Known Member

    I agree. I was hoping to get up before that happened, but illness strikes.
     
  4. Paul Kennedy

    Paul Kennedy Well-Known Member

    Saw a pic of black chasm which looked awesome. I'll try to post it.
     
  5. Paul Kennedy

    Paul Kennedy Well-Known Member

    Picture from a fellow member. Unknown climber on the route.
     

    Attached Files:

  6. Mike R

    Mike R Well-Known Member

    I'm pretty sure that's Lucho Romero on the Advocate.
     
  7. Paul Kennedy

    Paul Kennedy Well-Known Member

    Whatever it is it's nice and I'm jealous.
     
  8. Alpine Endeavors

    Alpine Endeavors AMGA Certified Rock and Alpine Guide Northeast Ice Climbing Guide

    I was in the Black Chasm yesterday. Coal Kills Falls are out, but the routes on the steep wall are in pretty nice considering the time of year - the Advocate to Mephisto.
    Also, one of our guides was in the Upper and Lower Dark Side and things were pretty sweet. I'd bet the lower Devils Kitchen is pretty decent. Keep in mind I'm not sure what happened up there today with the rain. Have fun! Pic is from the top of Bridgework - a bit wet and chandeliered.

    Marty Molitoris

     

    Attached Files:

  9. njice

    njice New Member

    Dark Side on 1/2 - on the lower tier, the first route (right end) was leadable to access top. Lightsaber was in pretty good shape. Last route on the left end (Gold Leader?) looked pretty bad but the right side of it could be top-roped. Upper Tier, did not climb Subtraction Gully but it looked very good to lead. Green Pillar was in great shape, and lead (by Mountain Skills). Nothing else up there looked safe to lead, but plenty of top-rope options.
     
  10. bendito

    bendito Member

    Conditions in The Black Chasm on 1/6/17
    IMG_4591.JPG
     

    Attached Files:

    Steakbone likes this.
  11. bendito

    bendito Member

    another pic of Black Chasm conditions on 1/6/17
     

    Attached Files:

  12. KurtZ

    KurtZ New Member

    Any updates on Stony Clove? Hoping to climb tomorrow (Jan 10)
     
  13. Mike R

    Mike R Well-Known Member

    LBD is looking pretty fat at the moment, and I saw a recent photo that looked like the Twin Pillars area on the East Side of Stony, and it looked OK. I suspect you'll have a good day. If anyone has more first-hand evidence to contribute, feel free to correct me or expand on this.
     
  14. Martin A

    Martin A New Member

    We were up on Buttermilk yesterday. Nobody else on the route. Thin, lots of running water and the stream crossing was interesting. need more cold weather!
     
  15. njice

    njice New Member

    1/9/17 - Stopped by Asbestos Wall after an early start in the Devil's Kitchen (great ice). Asbestos had a good amount of ice. Here today, maybe gone tomorrow.
     
    Stephen Pucci likes this.
  16. Brettinnj

    Brettinnj Member

    IMG_1738.JPG
    Devil's Kitchen 1/10
     
  17. Alpine Endeavors

    Alpine Endeavors AMGA Certified Rock and Alpine Guide Northeast Ice Climbing Guide

    The Devils Kitchen, Dark Side, Black Chasm, and even the Gunks were in pretty nice up to yesterday. Not sure how the storm and temperatures forecasted will turn out, but hopefully the additional water will bring in some fun lines. As of right now, we're rescheduling the local stuff up to Sunday. Here's a pic of Boston in the Trapps yesterday morning -
     

    Attached Files:

  18. Marx

    Marx New Member

    1-15-2017 - Dark Side was definitely in and looking pretty nice
     
  19. Brandon Medeiros

    Brandon Medeiros New Member

    1-21-16 - Devils Kitchen WAS in, but by the time we scrambled out we were dodging falling ice all over the place. With the weather this week its going to be all gone.
     
  20. John Lee

    John Lee New Member

    Jan 29th - tombstones was partially in - a few lines on bone yard, but nothing on the main amphitheater. Where it was in, it was decent
     

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