The First Ice
Huntington Ravine, Mt. Washington NH
Thursday October 6, 2011
4:30am start to beat the sun.
The first ice we have seen this season.
Mr. Alfonzo testing the ice, “she no go”.
We End Where We Start
Time to go “UP!”
The ice climbing season is coming to an end and the lower elevation climbs are melting away. But for the die hard ice climber, the best climbing is just beginning. The snow in the higher elevations is consolidating, the nights are cold, and the days are long and warm, Spring climbing in the Alpine Zones of the Northeast is one of the best experiences an ice climber can have. Make your plans now and get out before it all melts away.
Enjoy these recent photos from “The Zone”
[nggallery id=13]Doug Millen
La Loutre & La Pomme d'Or 3/5/11
La Loutre_2nd Pitch
La_Loutre and La_Pomme_d_Or
Malbaie, Quebec – La Loutre & La Pomme d’Or are still in great condition as of March 5th, 2011.
-Seb
Too Warm? Beware!
Dangerous Liaisons
Warm spells can create freeze-thaw cycles that are the stuff of new route dreams. But, as NEIce member RAH found last week, underestimating how much warmth is too much could have been fatal.
Now you see it, now you don't!
For the whole story, see RAH’s post:
https://www.neice.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=56833#Post56833
Another close call last winter at Willoughby for NEice member dpowers. A huge water release: https://www.neice.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=6941
December 7, 2010
Winter! Here it comes…
Mike Garity topping out on Pinnacle Gully, Huntington Ravine, Mt. Washington NH 12-05-10 - Alan Cattabriga
After the last thaw, most of the good climbing has been up high. That is about to change. After torrential rains last week the cold is back with a vengeance. A temperature of -4 is forecast for Lake Willoughby VT Thursday night. Look for perfect ice making conditions over the next week.
It's Back!
The Ice has Returned to the usual Early Season Locations
After a week + of warm weather, which took it’s toll on what little ice we had, the cold temps have returned! Climbable ice was found in the Adirondacks & Northern New Hampshire over the weekend.
Rowdy Dowdy on the thin start of 'Screw and Climbaxe'. A few worthless stubby screws halfway up. Half a dozen parties climbing the two routes that were 'in'. - 11/21/10 North Face of Pitchoff, Adirondacks NY - Rockytop
Right on Schedule!
The Black Dike
Cannon Cliff, Franconia Notch NH
November 3, 2010
Michael Wejchert leading pitch 3 of the “Black Dike” – Photo by Ryan Stefiuk
It looks like the 2010-2011 ice season is right on schedule!
“Great conditions were found on the right exit today. Plenty of ice up there. The sun was cooking Fafnir and Quartet, which both have some ice on them.” – Ryan Stefiuk – Big Foot Mountain Guides
The Black Dike (WI 4-5), Franconia notch NH is usually the first high-quality ice climb to come in and it usually happens this first week of November. We are off to a great start…lets hope it continues!
YES!
Let the “Games” begin!
Damnation Gully – Huntington Ravine, Mt Washington NH
Sunday October 10, 2010
Alfonzo finds some early ice on Damnation Gully, Huntington Ravine 10/10/10 – Doug Millen
While others were climbing warm rock at Rumney, or having their Sunday coffee, Alfonzo, the alpine junkie was in his element climbing some early season ice. We found more ice than expected, and it was well bonded, but by mid morning the sun was starting to take it’s toll. Looks like a great start to the season. Look for more photos in the gallery .
Doug Millen
Thin But In!
Nicolas Leduc leads up the second pitch on the Adirondack classic Multiplication Gully, Sunday, Dec. 21, 2009.(Photo by Cheezecrotte)
Despite the cold temperatures and wind chills, people are getting out and ticking off the classics. “Thin but in” is what we’re hearing for conditions on many routes but still very climbable for those solid at the given grades. In many cases, water is still flowing on the surface offering a break from the cement-like brittle conditions that often accompany the sub-zero temperature swings.
Photos from two super classics of the Northeast:
Called On Account of Rains, WI5+, Willoughby,VT
Positive Thinking, WI5, Adirondacks, NY
-NEIce
The Ice Season is Off and Running!
Eugene Kwan follows on Hassig’s Direct variation of The Black Dike on Cannon Cliff. (Photo by Kevin Mahoney, IFMGA/UIAGM Guide, Mahoney Alpine Adventures)
Finally, colder temperatures have arrived, albeit a bit colder than most of us would have liked to start with but ice has formed all over the Northeast now. Many of the classic lines are in and the season is solidly underway! Even the often elusive “Called on Account of Rains”, WI5+, at Lake Willoughby has formed and been climbed already!
Millen Machine and Alfonzo are up in Baxter State Park this week testing themselves and the new climbing regulations. We’re looking forward to a fantastic trip report and great photos as always from the duo!
Enjoy, send hard, be safe and stay warm!
North East Ice
Your ice climbing connection for New England, the Northeast and Beyond!