Whiteface Ski Mountaineering Classic

 The Mountaineer and Whiteface Mountain are combing forces to unleash the Inaugural Whiteface Ski Mountaineering Classic! This is a benefit event, all proceeds from the Ski Mountaineering Classic will be donated to NYSEF and The Keene Valley Ski Club.

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When: Sunday March 12th 2017

Where: Whiteface Mountain Located on Rt 86 in Wilmington, NY

Registration: We will offer registration the day of the event but we prefer (for planning purposes) to Please call the Mountaineer to pre-register 518-576-2281

Start Time: 7AM The green flag drops and you’ll start the 4+ mile course!

Cost:$60 per participant. Fee includes uphill pass valid through the end of 2018

 Demos and Casual tour info click here

Course details, rules and regulations click here

 

 

Mt Washington Backcountry Ski Festival

March 11-12, 2017
Presented by The North Face

MWVSF

The first annual Mt Washington Backcountry Ski Festival is a gathering in the White Mountains of New Hampshire for backcountry skiers & riders of all abilities. While geared towards backcountry skiers and snowboarders, climbers should check out these parts of the festival:

  • Vendor camp at Ragged Mountain Equipment each day with demos including some mountaineering and ice climbing gear.
  • AIARE Level 1 avalanche course that runs in conjunction with the festival from March 10-12
  • Apres Ski Party at Wildcat Mountain Ski Area on Saturday night (March 11) with free appetizers, open bar/pub, presentations, raffle & auction, and live band (Steven Cooney & The Wayfarers)
  • Best of all for climbers at the Apres Ski Party…featured presentation by Emily Harrington of The North Face Athlete Team, Emily will be speaking about her ascent and ski descent of Cho Oyu (6th tallest mountain in the world)

*** NEice readers can use the code of “nei10” to get 10% off their registration. The code expires March 9. Full details and registration options can be found on the website and Facebook page.
https://www.skimtwashington.com
https://www.facebook.com/skimtwashington/

Black Pudding Gully

Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival 2017

Out For Some Exercise

It’s been a great year for “Black Pudding Gully”. Hardly a gully, this climb can be steep and challenging at times, but it is fat and wide this year. And has seen a lot of traffic. It has been many years since I have climbed it, so we figured we would go have a look. Surely by now it would be stepped and hooked out making for an easy solo. Just what we needed, a little physical and mental exercise for our midday break. But we were late and two other parties of three were in front of us having fun climbing this classic line. So we took a line less traveled. A nice ice flow just to the right. It was steep and candled but Alden took one look and said “If I can’t climb that, I should not be going to Newfoundland”. He walked right up it with grace and confidence. I followed, it was just what I was looking for. BAKP showed us she is ready for harder climbs making it to the top easily with only a few squeaks ;-). Off I went to heat up the soup. Fred followed the climb and then, the Black Pudding Gully was standing alone, ready for Alden to climb before heading back for his Ice Fest responsibilities.

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Don’t be deceived, the climb is very for-shortened in this photo. It’s longer and more vertical than it appears on both climbs. Black Pudding Gully on the left, Alden climbing on the right.- Doug Millen

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Alden working the climb.- Doug Millen

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Me climbing Black Pudding Gully in the 80’s…Note the lack of a helmet, and the straight shaft tools you can’t see. I slung the column then put in two airated screws, and then headed to the top for good gear.

Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest 2017

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I love this event!!! So good to see everyone. It’s like a big family reunion! My only regret is not enough time to do all I wanted to do, or enough time to spend with everyone I wanted to see. I can’t wait till next year.

Many thanks to the MWV Ice Fest crew for all the hard work they do to put this event together. Thanks to all the sponsors that make this event possible. And to the guides for sharing their expertise of this amazing sport. And IME and Theater In The Woods for hosting, and to IMCS for coordinating all the guides. And thanks to all of you that attended, to make this the biggest, and best Ice Fest in the North East!

– Doug Millen

2017 Mt. Washington Valley Ice Fest

We are getting so PSYCHED!!!

The Largest Ice Fest in the Northeast is this Weekend!

Since its inception, 24 years ago, this event has been one of the biggest and most well known ice climbing events in the Northeast.

Feb. 3rd-5th, 2017
North Conway, New Hampshire

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The Shows

FRIDAY NIGHT FEATURED PRESENTER: SCOTT BENNETT
CAMP & CASSIN are bringing a young gun out to give a killer show on Friday.
Scott Bennett and Graham Zimmerman have been climbing together for years, from dirt-bagging in Yosemite to helicoptering into remote Alaska ranges. With their sights set on the truly big mountains, they enlist the help and mentor-ship of Steve Swenson, who is perhaps the most successful American alpinist of his generation.

SATURDAY NIGHT FEATURED PRESENTER: GUY ROBERTSON
Outdoor Research is bringing this awesome Brit over for the Ice Fest!
Guy’s presentation will give the “insider’s view” on Scottish winter climbing – the basics, the ethics, and the different styles of climbing to be found in different parts of the country. He will do this by describing some of his best adventures, which he has been lucky enough to share with some of the scenes most ‘interesting’ characters. His focus is on the more remote, longer and committing climbs rather than the short hard technical test pieces.

Friday & Saturday evening festivities will be taking place again at Theater in the Wood located 4 miles north of IME/IMCS on route 16. 41 Observatory Way – Intervale, NH 03845 (does not work on GPS devices – use the coordinates GPS: 44.101547, -71.153641)

Demo This GEAR!

Why beat up your own gear, when you could test out, try and beat up this gear?! This is one of the coolest parts about the MWV Ice Fest. Check out all the incredible companies you can demo gear from! TRY BEFORE YOU BUY! We’re talking jackets, gloves, ice tools, crampons, helmets, harnesses, packs, boots and MORE! Also Sterling Rope will be there for you to check out and talk to them about what the best ropes they offer for the type of climbing you’re most psyched about!

DEMO GEAR BETA:

8am-9am: Demo Gear is open to clinic participants to take out

9am-10am: Demo Gear is open to the public to take out

Demo companies are Outdoor Research, DMM, La Sportiva, Black Diamond, Trango, Adidas, Patagonia, Scarpa, Cilo Gear, Petzl, RAB, Cassin, CAMP USA, Grivel, Julbo, Mammut, Arc’Teryx, Asolo, Hyperlite Mountain Gear, Untapped & Good To Go Food! And you can check out Sterling Ropes at their table!

Guide ME!

Learn from some of the best guides in the Northeast.

http://www.mwv-icefest.com/guest-guides/

http://www.mwv-icefest.com/imcs-guides/

Some classes are still available. Check for current availability

International Mountain Climbing School
2733 White Mountain Highway – PO Box 1666
North Conway NH 03860
Phone: (603) 356-7064
Email: [email protected]

Soups On!

NEice will be serving up some yummy soup at the AAC table this year once more! You’ll find the NEice.com soup kitchen upstairs at IME during Apres hours from 3:30-5:30 on both Friday and Saturday, at the AAC table.

Full Schedule

More details on the blog & website: http://www.mwv-icefest.com/blog/


Tom Yandonon on Rhiannon, Chapel Pond

Featured Photos – ADK Mountainfest 2017

We had a great time at the 21st ADK Mountainfest. We delivered some hot soup to the clinics, did some climbing and Solo had a good flight over “Cheese and Crackers” at Chapel Pond. Here are a few of the images I captured during my travels at this event. Many thanks to The MountaineerRock and River , the Guides and everyone involved for the great work they do for the community, and the participants.  Their friendliness and hospitality is unmatched. We can’t wait to return.

Photos from the 2017 ADK Mountainfest – Doug Millen

Cover photo: ADK Legend Tom Yandon getting started on Rhiannon, Chapel pond.

 

 

Smuggs Ice Bash 2017

11th Annual Smuggs Ice Bash

January 20-22, 2017

Smuggs Ice Bash 2017

Kick-off party | Drytooling Competition | Clinics | Slideshows & Speaker Presentation | Raffle | Camaraderie!

Free gear demos from the industries leading brands, clinics for the beginner to advanced climbers, multimedia slideshows by sponsored athletes, dry tooling competition and kick-off party, huge raffles and immense camaraderie in Vermont’s premier ice climbing destination, Smuggler’s Notch!

The goal of the Smuggs Ice Bash is to promote the sport of ice climbing, to educate climbers, to exhibit and demo new gear, and to share a weekend of fun, challenge, and inspiration with other winter enthusiasts in one of Vermont’s most amazing places, Smuggler’s Notch.

The Smuggs Ice Bash is managed by Petra Cliffs Climbing Center & Mountaineering School 105 Briggs Street Burlington, VT 05401 802.657.3872 www.petracliffs.com

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Friday Night Drytool Comp and Kickoff Party

The Drytooling Competition on Friday, January 20th is going to be (take your pick: awesome, inspiring, insane, off the hook, the best use of your Friday night ever, a damn good time)- it’s where you want to be. Come watch as some of the East’s strongest climbers converge to try their axe-wielding hands at hanging on and moving through obstacles on FoamIce, stalactities, steinpulls, and more…

Starting at 6pm @ Petra Cliffs Climbing Center
$5 Entry fee
Cash only for Raffle Tickets
Beverages provided by our gracious sponsors
Live DJ to keep the party going!
Public Demo’s: Drytool Route, Swing into Foam Ice, Climb with Dry Ice Tools
*Interested in competing? Email [email protected] for info. – Must have extensive ice/mixed lead climbing experience.

The Smuggs Ice Bash is managed by Petra Cliffs Climbing Center & Mountaineering School 105 Briggs Street Burlington, VT 05401 802-657-3872  www.petracliffs.com

The 21st Annual ADK Mountainfest

Mark your Calendars!

January 13-15, 2017

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Mountainfest 2017 has an excellent line-up of speakers this year including Patagonia athlete Kelly Cordes, Rab athlete Scott Bennett and Black Diamond athlete Kevin Mahoney.

safe_imagePatagonia Worn Wear will be hanging out in the shop during Mountainfest weekend and doing minor repairs (patches, zippers etc.) on your clothing! How cool is that!

Bluelines 2The new ice climbing guide book is here! BLUE LINES 2. Available exclusively at The Mountaineer for a limited time! Blue Lines 2 describes the explosion of routes in Panther Gorge, Hayes Mountain, Hoffman Notch, West Canada Cliff and Silver Lake Mountain. The new guide has more than double the route descriptions of the previous guide.

The Conditions are Great!

Conditions are shaping up nicely for this event and the area will offer some great ice climbing opportunities. Get the new guide book (BLUE LINES 2) and go out and explore. I am sure you won’t be disappointed.

Photos from the NEice.com photo section

Hot Soup!

SoupNEice.com will be delivering hot soup to selected clinics. Nothing is better than hot soup on a cold day. NEice will also have it’s drones in the air capturing photos this great local event. SoloInterested in Drones? Doug will be around and happy to answer your questions on drone use for photography.

Tag your photos #northeastice on Instagram to show up on the front page of NEice.com.

– Mountainfest is an annual celebration of ice climbing and mountaineering featuring guest athletes who entertain us with tales of their climbing adventures. You will also find instructional clinics taught by visiting athletes and local guides, demo gear, and of course an opportunity to mingle with the climbing community for an exciting weekend of winter climbing and fun!

For more information on this event go to http://www.mountaineer.com/mountainfest-2017/


2017 – UIAA Ice Climbing Calendar

The UIAA is delighted to announce the final event dates for the 2017 UIAA Ice Climbing season.

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UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup
16-17 December, Durango, Colorado (USA)
7-8 January, Beijing (China)
14-15 January, Cheongsong (South Korea)
20-21 January, Saas Fee (Switzerland)
27-29 January, Rabenstein (Italy)

UIAA Ice Climbing World Championships
4-5 February, Champagny-en-Vanoise (France)

Youth Event
14-15 December, Durango, Colorado (USA)

UIAA Ice Climbing World Youth Championships
10-11 February, Champagny-en-Vanoise (France)

More Information can be found here

Source: UIAA News Release / theuiaa.org

Harvard Cabin – Work Weekend

October 14-16, 2016

You’re Invited! – Click Here to Sign-Up

Harvard Cabin Mountaineers,

Hope everyone had fun and safe summer season. Marcia and I are currently traveling east towards New Hampshire. Having left Moab, Utah a few days ago we are on course for a just-in-time arrival to the 2016 Harvard Cabin Work Weekend set to kick-off on Friday Night, October 14th. If you are in the area and feel like a some Fall tramping on the rock pile and seeing the cabin in another season you are invited to stop-by, say hi, and lend a hand.

If you are interested in joining us for the weekend you can sign-up using the form linked above. Enter your name on the lower portion of the the form to let the club know how many to expect. You can ignore the travel/carpooling logistics info pertaining to club members traveling from Cambridge. That said, If you are in the Boston Area and are interested in carpooling, you may be in luck. Alternatively, you can reply here and let me know. Keep in mind, I’ll be at the cabin Friday Night and away from e-mail.

Sorry for the short notice. I really should have sent out this e-mail weeks ago. It’s looking like it will be a fun and very productive weekend. If we get to see some of you it will only add to the fun. Marcia and I will be around the cabin off and on throughout the remainder of the Fall, so if you can’t make it this weekend because you already have sending plans, we might need some more help in the coming weeks. Please let me know if you are interested.

That’s all for now from a congested interstate somewhere near Columbus, OH….this 4G stuff is really cool and really fast….like, 65 MPH all day!!! 14 more hours to the trail head! Hope to see some of you. If not, get psyched for snow and ice and we’ll see you this Winter!

As always, thanks for reading and keeping the Harvard Cabin warm and well!

Rich Palatino
Harvard Cabin Caretaker


Trail Adoption

A bit earlier this year the Harvard Mountaineering Club became the official trail adopter of the Huntington Ravine Fire Road. Trail Adopters are utilized across the country by the US Forest Service as a way to address trail maintenance issues that might come up from time to time. Becoming a trail adopter gives volunteer groups and/or individuals the permission and training necessary to mitigate trail maintenance needs as they arise. In the northeast this likely includes over-growth on lesser used trails and the clearing of the occasional blow-down. Maintenance issues like this are sometimes best dealt with by capable members of the public who are willing and regular users of a particular area. The efficiency of such an arrangement benefits everyone by circumventing the back-log of work and funding issues that forest managers tend to be dealing with.

It is only fitting that the HMC has taken on this role given the fact that Ted Carman and crew cut the fire road as they staked out sites for the construction of the Harvard Cabin in the early 1960’s.

Work Weekend Details

As with everything relating to life at the Harvard Cabin and in the mountains, safety is paramount. If you are planning to help with trail work we are asking you arrive equipped with basic personal protective equipment to include sturdy foot wear, gloves, eye protection and helmet. You will not be excluded if you don’t have such gear, but the more volunteers that bring their own the better. Same goes for hand-tools. If you have your own,please bring along any hand tools that you imagine would be useful given the days work. Simple hand tools should suffice. Please, Please, Please – only bring tools you are familiar with and comfortable using. Thanks.

Friday, October 14th, 2016

08:00 PM – Arrival

Feel free to show up at the Harvard Cabin on Friday Night – It will be later evening – 8 PM or so before the cabin is opened. Of course, bring you sleeping gear and some food. It should be a fun night evicting the summer residents. Cabin was spic-and-span when it was secured last Spring, so it should be a quick turn-around and a fun evening.

Saturday, October 15th, 2016

07:00 AM – PInkham Parking Lot

Snow Ranger and Trails Manager Helon Hoffer will be arriving at the Forest Service Garage located at the North End of the Pinkham Parking Lot. He would appreciate any help hiking up hand-tools that will be used for the day.

09:00 AM – Harvard Cabin

Helon will be meeting volunteers at the Harvard Cabin for a short safety briefing and to go over the plan for the day. In recent years, it has been increasingly difficult to get the Piston Bully (snow cat) above the Dow Cache. HMC Volunteers will be assisting the Forest Service in clearing and widening sections of the fire road where new growth is making access and rescue operations difficult, especially during low snow periods.

10:00 AM – 04:00 PM

Find us on the fire road somewhere above the Dow Cache.

04:00 PM – ???

Various odd-jobs around the cabin before dinner and evening socializing.

Sunday, October 16, 2016

All Day – A bit more relaxed of a day. Various projects and pre-season prep around the cabin. Tasks for all abilities and energy levels.

NOTE – Harvard Cabin is not affiliated with the Appalachian Mountain Club. Harvard Cabin is maintained by Harvard Mountaineering Club for use by the general public. The cabin is operated under a special-use permit granted by the USDA Forest Service. Cabin space and tent-sites are available on a first-come, first-serve basis between December 1st and March 31st each year. Specific instructions for staying at the cabin can be found online at http://www.HarvardMountaineering.org/cabin

AAC Fall BBQ 2016

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American Alpine Club’s annual Fall BBQ

NORTHEAST SECTION – NEW ENGLAND

When: Saturday October 22, 2016
Time: 5:00 pm to 8:00 pm
Where: The base of Cathedral Ledge at the Picnic Area just opposite the kiosk

NEice is the proud sponsor of this years event! All are welcome. Swing by to say hi to Doug and get psyched for the upcoming ice season! Doug will have some good Soup for us and his latest Drones! And don’t forget, it’s “Fireball” season.

As always it’s BYOB, and a grill item. We’ll provide the grill, side salads and munchies. We will have Plates, forks, cups and napkins on hand.

The New England Section has a long tradition of gathering and bringing climbers together from across multiple generations. Come join us at the annual fall barbecue at Cathedral Ledge in New Hampshire and you’re likely to bump into a mix of climbers, from someone on their first trip to the White Mountains to local legends who have put up some of the area classics.

See you there!

More info here: https://americanalpineclub.org/new-england

Email: [email protected]