The Event Horizon

A fantastic free variation to a rare visitor on the big wall of Mt. Pisgah, Lake Willoughby VT

Bayard Russell of Cathedral Mountain Guides has a great write up of the climb at …https://www.cathedralmountainguides.com/2019/01/30/event-horizon/




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Claiming anything is “New” in New England, especially when it comes to climbing and FAs, is all too often a first step in learning a route’s actual history… Bayard Russell and I put in some work on what we believed was a new mixed line at Lake Willoughby. We were both shocked at its prominence, yet we’d never seen it in anything like its current form. We borrowed the first pitch of Josh Hurst’s, Luna Kahuna to approach the hanging ice. Next, we edged left to find what appeared to be the belay for a rock climb. Stepping out left again, on ice bobbles we found a previous team’s high point in the form of an old bolt and bail carabiner 25’ below unprotected climbing to reach “the business” we’d been eyeing from the ground. On our first day ferreting out the line to gain the ice, temps were locked at 0 degrees under overcast skies, and progress was slow. I led pitch 1 and Bayard equipped the steep slab to overhanging face to keep it sane. Returning this Saturday, in disbelief at the quality of the line and that it has survived the warm-up mid week, we swapped leads freeing it to the top, practically giddy. As the dust settles, it seems a Canadian team that included Mathieu Péloquin and partner did a line 15-20’ right of ours in 2008, gaining the upper 400’ of ice. So, it appears that maybe we’ve added a fantastic free variation to an ice line that’s formed twice ( to our knowledge) in that last 11 years. We’re calling our climb The Event Horizon, which is well inline with the space and celestial themes of other climbs on the wall, but seems even more fitting as we were pressing into what was for us, the unknown and have now shed just a bit of light on its history. What a year it’s been for climbing at Lake Willoughby! @outdoorresearch @petzl_official @asolo.official #mountainsenseguides #cathedralmountainguides

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