Pharaoh Mountain Mini-Guide
By Steve Prettyman

Find a group of North East ice climbers; throw them together and before long a question will arise. “Have you been into that climb on Pharaoh Mountain?”  Although the climb in question, a nearly 500’ waterfall on the mountain’s southwestern shoulder, has gained popularity over the recent years there still seems to be a large population of Adirondack climbers who have yet to swing their tools into one of the area’s truly classic routes. 

If you’re tired of crowded roadside cragging and looking for a multi-pitch route with moderate climbing, in a scenic backcountry setting then grab your snowshoes and compass because this climb is for you.

Approach:

Start from the town of Adirondack NY. There are two ways to reach the climb each averaging between two to three hours depending on conditions. One approach comes in from the west via Spectacle Pond. There is a signed trail head for the pond off of East Shore Road which runs along the east side of Schroon Lake. The other comes in from the south via Beaver Pond Road near the town of Adirondack. For approach details regarding this popular option and other useful information refer to Don Mellor’s guide book Blue Lines.

Spectacle Pond approach details: This approach starts with fast hiking on a usually packed out trail. After 1 1/4 miles you’ll reach the pond. If the surface is solid, cross the pond and head towards the far eastern side, passing through a frozen marsh before reaching the opposite shore. Once back on solid ground you’ll travel off-trail through a notch with Desolate Hill to the north. After breaking out of the notch you’ll come to a significant pond, from here head southeast towards the climb.

When you’re close to the actual route, wait until it’s directly in front of you before heading uphill the last few hundred yards. If you leave the open woods too soon you’ll be stumbling through nasty talus as you contour around to the base of the falls.

Equipment:

Go light! You’ll be carrying your gear for roughly the same amount of time you’ll be climbing with it. The first time I went in with a friend to do this climb we were loaded for bear. A substantial rock rack, pitons, half ropes - you name it we carried it.  Now I take a single 60 meter rope, a handful of slings and 6 to 8 screws which makes the hike in much more enjoyable.

Snowshoes: What climber doesn’t hate these things? Even if the trail looks packed from the trail head, it might not be the case after you get in a mile or so. Don’t forget your ski poles either.

Map and Compass: There a couple of maps out there to chose from. The newer National Geographic Trails Illustrated Maps of the Adirondacks (#743) that came out a few years ago are good and they’re probably available at the Mountaineer in Keene Valley.

The Basics: Headlamp with spare batteries, lighter/matches, space blanket, small first aid kit, food, water, etc.

Webbing/Cord for Rap Anchors: Replace the webbing rap anchors if needed. These things see a lot of UV rays through out the year.

Strategy:

Start early! Even in great weather with a well broken trail you’ll be out longer than you might expect. The last time we climbed the route we rapped down and then climbed it again switching pitches with each other. This makes the effort of reaching the climb much more reasonable. If you’d rather round out the day climbing something different the most logical choice would be the route King Tut (NEI 4) about 100 yards right of the main route. If you rap this route on your descent after climbing the main falls, you’ll get an up close look at the challenges. (If this option appeals to you then bring a rock rack up to 2”).

Route Description:

The first pitch, which is the crux, can be climbed a couple of ways. The standard route takes the left side which works up an initial headwall (NEI 3+) then trends right through a slight notch to the sloping ice bulges above. The second option (NEI 4-), would be to start the first pitch out right on the steeper ice sheet that eventually eases into the sloping bulges mentioned above.

The next section climbs easy ice (NEI 2) to the sloping base of the steeper finish. You might find more shelter and a better stance for the belayer on the left hand side below the last pitch.

The third pitch makes this climb a classic! Tackle the wide flow above (NEI 3) finishing at the large open ledge that marks the obvious end to the challenges.

Decent:

After topping out head south (climbers’ right when ascending the route) a few hundred feet. Some easy scrambling might be encountered as you drop down to the logical trees from which a rappel would be easiest. Two or three rappels will bring you back to ground.