MEAN STREAK
December 11, 2007

It's one "Mean Streak" (450', WI 6, M7), Cannon Cliff, Franconia Notch, NH
(FA: Will Mayo and Andy Tuthill)

More photos

Photos by Andy Tuthil

Lake Willoughby VT

December 8, 2007

" The Gantlet "

Click to Enlarge

Most climbers would have run out of gas or daylight after climbing “Called On Account of Rains” but Josh Hurst and Matt McCormick still had plenty of energy and proceeded to climb “The Gantlet” to finish off the day.

Photo by Matt McCormick

The Access Fund News

Climbers Misrepresented in Mainstream Media

Alpinist's Inventory Burned to the Ground

On December 5, the warehouse in which Alpinist housed its inventory - back issues, hats, shirts, water bottles, stickers, everything - burned to the ground. Nothing was salvaged. The destruction of all we've built over the last five years would have been bad enough. This one, though, came in the middle of the holidays, a blow that has us wobbling. With nothing left to sell for our bread-and-butter season, we have a favor to ask.

If you were considering giving Alpinist as a gift or renewing your subscription, now's a great time to do so.

Alpinist Magazine

Lake Willoughby VT

December 1, 2007

"China Shop" makes another rare appearance.

Photos by Doug Millen

Safety Articles and Information from
The Alpine Club of Canada (Word doc files)

Marking of Ropes

Damage from Stepping on your Rope

Wet and Icy Ropes May be Dangerous!

Methods and Materials for V-thread (Abalakov) Anchors
Some Important Issues & Reminders

Smuggler's Notch Ice Bash

New Date: Feb. 15-17, 2008

Come and bash some ice! Ice tower, mixed and ice clinics, gear demos, warming hut, and more. Jeffersonville's Sunrise Cafe' and up in Smuggler's Notch. Evening fun, sponsors, and prizes. More details to come later

Gaspésie Québec

An Ice Climbing Tour

by Doug Millen

NEice TV

Pam Banks on the crux of "Corrupt Data" The Hell hole (aka Devils Kitchen) Catskills NY

Cover Photos

NEice is looking for cover photos.

Win a $250.00 gift certificate from The Mountaineer, Keen Valley NY.

Photos that make the cover during the ice climbing season will be entered for a drawing on April 1, 2008. The more of your photos that make the cover, the better your chances, so enter often.

Post your photos as usual to the photo section. Cover shots will be selected from the posted photos.

Requirements
1. Photos must be taken between November 1, 2007 & February 29, 2008
2. Your photos may not appear in any other web site or publication or they will be disqualified.
3. Photos must be in digital format and a min. of 480px wide. A full size image may be requested for the cover shot.
4. You must own the rights to the photo and grant NEice permission to use it on its web site. Full credit will be given to the photographer.

Off The Beaten Path

Pharaoh Mountain Mini-Guide

By Steve Prettyman

If you’re tired of crowded roadside cragging and looking for a multi-pitch route with moderate climbing, in a scenic back country setting then grab your snowshoes and compass because this climb is for you.

Dull Screws?

The ice is here and its time to sharpen your screws. You have two choices. Sharpen them your self or send them out. Rob Ginieczki, of Griz Guides and long time contributor to NEice offers an excellent screw sharpening service. Information can be found at www.grizguides.com/screwsharp.php. For those willing to tackle the job themselves, Black Diamond has a great video showing the proper technique at (4.3 mb) http://www.bdel.com/videos/screw_sharpening.html

Teck Tip - X-tream tape

Originally developed for the military, this new silicone tape is ideal for wrapping your ice tool. And with the 6 different colors it is easy to individualize your tools.

Outdoor Clothing & Footwear Recommendations
by Mark Verber

Version 1.7 -- October 3, 2007

Link Submitted by Olaf

News form around the web

OBSESSION AND INGENUITY: PART I - Alpinist.com

Huge New Ice Climb in the Rockies - Climbing.com

Event News

The Art of Climbing: Art Show with Slide Show by Mark Synnott is coming to the Salyards Center for the Arts on November 9. Proceeds from the event, featuring artwork and literature with climbing themes, will benefit Kismet Rock Foundation and the newly renovated Salyards Center for the Arts.

Festiglace du Québec will become a bi-annual event. The 11th edition of the most popular climbing event of the planet will be held in Pont-Rouge on February 20-21-22, 2009. I hope to see you again. - Éric Leclerc, director

Annual Fund Drive

NEice is only possible with your help

Most of the funds that keep NEice going come from viewers like you. Make a donation today so we can continue to be the #1 stop for ice climbing information in the Northeast. Thank you - Doug Millen

Off the Beaten Path

An early season prospect
"Lincoln's Throat"
Mt. Lincoln
Franconia Notch NH

SARKEN crampons recall

If you own SARKEN crampons (any binding system, black or orange color metallic parts):

• you should stop using the crampons
• you should contact your Petzl distributor to obtain return instructions and to indicate which Petzl crampon model you would like in exchange. He will process the exchange procedure of your crampons as soon as possible at no charge.

To contact your distributor, by phone or by email:

• In North America:
  877-740-3826 (toll-free number)
  sarken.recallna@petzl.com.

Recent customer experience has shown that the front points of SARKEN crampons are susceptible to premature wear out following heavy use. This means cracking of the metal forefoot near the front point(s), followed by possible breakage if usage continues.

Petzl has stopped sales and production of these crampons and is recalling all SARKEN crampon models because we feel that the potential lifetime of the crampons should be longer than user experience has demonstrated.

NEWS Flash

September 4, 2007
Masherbrum Mountains, Pakistan

Steve House, Vince Anderson and Marko Prezelj climbed the west summit of K7. Find out more at The Cleanest Line. A Weblog for the employees, friends and customers of the outdoor clothing company Patagonia.

K6 Pakistan

LP & Max in a race for the North Face of K6. Read their travel blog

Mahoney Alpine Adventures

KEVIN'S CLIMBING BLOG: Denali; hurry up and wait

Ice Climbing Fever!

"You know you’re an addict, when it’s early August, and your thinking about ice climbing".

 Doug Millen

Festiglace 2007 - 10th annual

Sam Beaugey (FRANCE) photo by Doug Millen

Festiglace gets better every year and this year it exceeded my wildest dreams. See the Movie and Photos