Canadian Direct

Alaska Grade 6, M6, 5.9, 8000 ft.

Denali National Park, Alaska,  May 2006

Report by Louis-Philippe Ménard

Hello friends!

Back from Alaska and we hit it again this year on sighting Denali by a new route on the south face (8000 ft long)! After acclimatizing on the West Buttress up to 17k ft we came all the way back to Kahilta base camp to resuply. Skied back up in the east fork at the base of the south face on the east side (right of the Cassin). In between the Japanese Direct and the American Direct is a steep and huge rock buttress. We climbed right through the middle of this lower buttress (5000ft - from 11500 to 16500ft) and joined the American Direct at top and climbed all free.

Climbing alpine style, we crossed the 'shrund at 9AM on the 28th (May) and reached the south ridge at 7PM the 30th after a 58h push, stopping only 3 times to brew and including a 6h bivy stop at 17k ft. We carried on the route up to 20200ft near the summit where we couldn't see a thing in total white-out before starting down the West butt. We carried 45L packs each containing a double bivy sack and sleeping bag, insulation pants and parka, a stove and pot, 44oz of fuel, gels, bars and oatmeal for 4 days and a small alpine rack.

The first 24h of climbing, although threatened by frequent rock falls, were stellar bare hand rock climbing with the occasional ice pitch and neve ramp. After that, the weather detoriated and found ourselves in snowing, spindrift and white-out conditions for the rest of the climb and through the descent. We belayed the majority of the route, but simul-climbed to stretch every pitch to about 100 to 150m and did about 38 pitches. We were forced to bivy at around 19200ft as we were starting having trouble to walk straight (I had just flown over Max, not able to self arrest him falling down a huge drop... we didn't want to push our luck after eventually stopping ourselves tumbing down!) Neither of of had gone over 17k on the West buttress before and we literally found Denali pass zigzaging through the football field to find our way down, which we eventually did and were welcomed by friends at 17k ft camp for a rest before continuing down to 14k and finally go to sleep!

We haven't come up with a name yet but our 'Canadian Direct' is Alaska Grade 6, M6, 5.9, 8000ft.

My plan to go on Denali in the first place was to train for Pakistan and see how I managed at altitude. Turned out a really good trip.

More to come and pictures too! My feet and face are trashed!

Talk to you soon.

lp