It's one "Mean Streak" (450', WI 6, M7)
Cannon Cliff, Franconia Notch, NH
FA: Will Mayo and Andy Tuthill, 12/11/2007
Andy Tuthill and I returned to Cannon Cliff in Franconia Notch, NH yesterday (12/11/07) to try the mixed line to the left of Omega. We've all looked at it over the years and wondered. She go!
We climbed it in three pitches of sustained difficulty. We climbed it traditionally, ground up, free, onsight and didn't leave a stitch of fixed protection behind (however, we dropped one lost arrow piton on the first pitch and one dyneema sling into the depths of a wide crack behind the giant shattered flake at the very top of the wall - litter bugs!)
The ice is scant but exciting; the rock is of reasonably good quality with mostly good hooking and torque-ing the whole way. There is some loose rock (especially toward the top) and belaying where indicated on the "topo" would ensure safety for the belayer from falling rock. The smear to the right of the line we took on the third pitch will make a fine variation someday. We felt it was a little too lean yesterday.
We carried a full rack of pins, single rack of nuts, single rack of cams, a few short screws and 70M ropes. At the top we burrowed through the snow covered trees 400-500 feet north-northeast to the top of Omega where our threads from last week were waiting for us and we rappelled Omega just before dark.
It was just another addition to the long list of first ascents Andy has done on Cannon; but, it was my very first first ascent on Cannon! It's destined to be a traditional mixed climbing classic!!!!
All photos copyright Andy Tuthill (and he came up with the clever name too!). Thanks Andy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Happy Holidays everyone!
Enjoy, Will |