Losar
VI WI5 700M 
Khumbu Region of the Himalaya

Erik Weihenmayer, the first blind man to climb Everest and the Seven Summits, has now climbed "Losar."

From Namche we walked for an hour or so and then crossed the river on a make shift bridge. The approach is in a steep stream bed. The first two approach pitches are grade 2-3 and are not counted in the pitch tally. The route starts at about 10,000 feet of elevation and has a character similar to "Polar Circus" although is more severe!  It doesn't have the flat spots or nearly as much casual terrain.  The climb winds upwardly with various types of grade 4 climbing with hardly a belay ledge to be found. There are sections that will certainly test you. 

We started just before dawn and found ourselves atop pitch twelve late in the afternoon.  Erik is amazing. He may be blind, but he moved speedily

Ian and Erik at the belay. Photo by Rob Raker

throughout the day and was eager throughout. We made our decision to bivy after pitch 12, leaving the two long crux pitches for the next morning. The night was long as we realized the "knock off" North Face sleeping bags weren't really rated to -10c.  A fire that night and the jet boil in the morning saved the day.  The small, rocky ledge didn't offer much in the way of comfort, but the view was grand. 

The first pitch off the ledge the next morning was a rope stretcher.  Even with the 70 meter ropes Erik and Rob had to climb part of the snow cone to allow me to reach the cave behind the column. The climbing then becomes steep and mushroom filled. I reached the belay and found a room behind the column that was flat and comfortable. Stepping out of the cave onto pitch 14 was beautiful. Everest and Gnomish provide a stunning backdrop. Another long column pitch and more mushrooms led to the top.

Ian starting the last pitch. Photo by Rob Raker

From the top, I belayed Erik and Rob while witnessing the best view one can imagine. Then their helmets emerged nearly simultaneously. Erik, the first blind man to do Everest and the Seven Summits, had just climbed "Losar."

We started rappelling; I was psyched.  Setting the "V" threads provided me the perfect opportunity to test my new thread tool. I have spent the last year developing and patenting the tool. It worked great! We made it down just as darkness fell. Milk tea, dinner, and sleep at our base camp made it the perfect ending. 

The trip was very rewarding - Trekking in one of the world's most beautiful ranges, a first ascent, and climbing "Losar." It can't get any better than that.

Ian Osteyee operates Adirondack Mountain Guides, Keene, NY